Making YOUR OWN candle/soap molds: It's easier than....

...you may think!
I'm a sculptor, and I learned to make molds of my artwork when I realized I didn't want to part with a piece I'd made--if I was able to make a mold of my work I could make any number of casts from it for sale, gifts, etc. For sculptures I typically pour plaster in my molds, however, pouring soap or wax is exactly the same process (as soon as I learned to make molds I began thinking of sculptures ['models' as I'll refer to them in this guide] to make specifically to begee soaps or candles. If you're not into the idea of making your own models out of clay, you can still use this technique to makesoaps/candles of any shapeyou choose--from seashells to a chesspiece to even a plastic squeak-toy. Or try this: next time you melt wax, take 1 ladlefull (about a cup) of it and slowly pour it into a TALL container of cold water. It will elongate and solidify (as it cools and falls) into beautiful, exotic shapes....voila!, a unique model from which to make a mold and pour candles/soap. I'm going to assume here that you already make candles and/or soap (thereare a fewexcellent guides already here on basic candle-and-soap-making; refer to any of them first if you've never poured soap OR candles before!), I hope you're reading this because you're sick of using generic molds from the craft store, not to learn how to pour wax/soap!
The materials we'll need are:
1) A 'model'---(if you're making your own model, use "Oil based clay" available at art supply stores. It must be the type called'NSP' [non-sulphur plastelina], or be labelled 'sulphur-free'). Use hands, clay tools, paring knife, walnut picks, etc. to shape your model. Remember that soap or wax will not hold really exquisite surface detail, so don't sweat every detail of your model! If you're using an object you already have as a model, it must be non-porous (wood must be sealed and shellacked, for example). Plaster that is bone-dry needn't be sealed, but it WILL help get the mold off your model if you do). Plastic, glazed ceramic clay, or glass are all fine for models. Here's a clay mushroom I made,with a jar of molding rubber and a brush:

2)Latex molding rubber---this is a creamy mix of rubber-band rubber and ammonia (the ammonia keeps it liquid when it's not exposed to air). When brushed onto a model, the ammonia evaporates and the rubber knits back together into a tough, resilient, stretchy mold, able to stretch back off of surface contours that would 'trap' a rigid mold (such as plaster, plastic, etc). Before brushing liquid latex onto your model, you must first prepare a paintbrush so it doesn't clog up with congealing rubber as you work. Put 1/4cup dishwashing soap and 1 cup water in a glass, and immerse your brush in it. Affix the bottom of your model to a base--the lid of a coffee can is perfect--with hot-melt glue or 'used' chewing gum. Now wipe the bristles and begin. Brush a thin coat of rubber over the entire surface of your model, and at the bottom, run it out 2"--3" onto the coffee-can lid to make a 'lip' you'll use to hold your finished mold in place when you pour your soap/candle. The rubber will begin to congeal within a few minutes. Keep your brush in the soapy water solution between coats (and the lid ON your jar of rubber!). When the rubber gets tacky on your model, brush on another coat in the alternate direction (vert/horiz strokes--this makes a strong mold). A small mold (up to about 6" tall) needs 5--6 coats, bigger molds need 7--9.your mold should be 1/8--1/4" thick now.When finished, set aside to cure. When the rubber has turned gepletely amber, nick it with a fingernail. If it leaves a mark, it's not ready yet; if it springs back, it's cured. If your model and mold are much larger than 6", you may need to make a 2-part plaster 'backup mold'for support so your rubber mold doesn't distend out of shape under the weight of soap or wax when you use it. To make this rigid backup mold outsideof your cured rubber mold (DON'T remove the rubber mold from the model yet!), you'll need....
3)Gypsum plaster---(available in art supply stores) This is not 'plaster of paris', which is too soft and crumbly for our purpose; use the grades called 'hydrostone', 'hydrocal', or 'ultracal'. Don't use themixing directions on the box! Put 3--5 cups of water in a plastic mixing bowl. Fill a bucket with rinse water to clean up. Now begin sifting plaster into the mixing bowl of water. It will turn to snowflakes and sink. Keep sifting it in until it begins to form a little island on top of the water. THAT'S how much plaster to use! Let it sit for 5min as it absorbs water. Now reach in and mix gently with your hands until it has a uniform, creamy consistency. Go slow and keep your hands under the water so you don't create air bubbles as you stir. Make sure there are no lumps. Do NOT rinse your hands in the sink; use the rinse bucket--plaster will set up under water, and will ruin your plumbing!!! Don't dump the rinse water down the drain, either. The plaster will begin to thicken now. When it has the consistency of oatmeal, use your hands to spackle it on one half of your mold and model, about 1" thick. Don't follow any undercuts (contours), or you'll never get it off! My mushroom model (above) has an 'undercut' belowits cap that would trap a rigid plaster backup mold...the plaster mold must be able to pull directly off to the side. The plaster mold needn't hold every contour anyway; it'sjust there for support. Apply the plaster to the halfway line around your rubber mold/model (if you go farther around than that it won't gee off!). Take a butter knife and carve a smooth edge in the soft plaster, so it will cleanly join the other half we'll make next. Set it aside for 30--45min until the plaster is hard. Now cover the smooth edge with petroleum jelly (this will keep it from sticking to the other half). Mix another batch of plaster as before, and glob it on to the other side right up to the first half. Let it set. When dry, pull the 2 halves apart.
Now you can remove your rubber mold from your model. First dust the rubber mold with baby powder so the rubber won't stick to itself and make an unuseable mess! Carefully peel the rubber mold off your model, dusting more baby powder on the inside as it rolls up. If you wish to 'vulcanize' your rubber mold for added tear strength, boil it in a pot of water for 2min. If you made a backup mold, put your rubber mold in 1 half of the plaster backup and close the other half over it. Wrap 2 rubber bands around it all to keep the halves aligned. If you're making candles, punch a wick-hole in the top of the rubber mold first.To hold your wickinsert a small sheet-metal screw in the hole and cover with masking tape.
To pour your soap/wax, cut a hole in a cardboard box large enough for your mold(s) but small enough that the rubber lip you made at the base of your mold can be taped to the box to hold it when you pour your soap/wax. After making your candle/soap, carefully stretch and peel the rubber mold off.
See?! That WAS easy! There's a lot moreI wasn't ableto shareabout moldmaking, but this isenough infofor you to CREATE YOUR OWNUNIQUE CANDLES AND SOAPS. You'll get better after you make a few, and needless to say,having a few of the same mold allows you to pour more candles/soaps each time. Here's one of the candlesfrom my clay mushroom:

If you're unable to find these materials locally, see Item number: 8285395471---it's everything you need for this project.
materials for this project
Remember, since us cooks get to eat our 'mistakes', have fun--and don't worry if your first efforts are less than perfect!!! Peace out....